How to Hang Art on "Impossible" Walls—Stone, Tile, Glass
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Time to read: 10 min
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Time to read: 10 min
Aside from the hanging hardware and the picture itself, the success of a hanging project lies in the wall type more than anything else. On this blog, we’ve discussed hanging on drywall, plaster, concrete, and even brick. But not as much has been said about hanging on walls made of stone, ceramic tiles, and glass. Stone is uneven and rough, tiles are brittle, and glass is fragile and see-through—is hanging on these substrates even possible? Is it practical, not to mention safe? Though these “impossible” walls are not as commonly decorated or utilized to display art, they’re nowhere close to being excluded from the art scene and design world.
Often, these types of walls may not be exclusive throughout a space. Mantelpieces are often stone-clad, while tiled walls are a go-to in kitchens and bathrooms. Glass walls are a facet of modern buildings, and can be unavoidable, but there is also the option of hanging decor on windows. In this guide, we’ll look at what makes each type of wall unique, how they affect the hanging process, and which tools are best for hanging artwork safely on them.
Some of the oldest man-made structures in the world were built from stone, from the Göbekli Tepe and the Egyptian pyramids to Stonehenge, testaments to the natural material’s age-old durability. But as strong as stone is, modern buildings clad in stone are usually constructed with stone veneers, non-load-bearing walls with a more decorative purpose in both exterior facades and interior walls.
Today, stone cladding makes for a gorgeous design feature in modern spaces, but as far as decorating and picture hanging go, stone is not the prime material. It’s hard to hang anything on stone because of its uneven and rough surface—even as a stone veneer, this substrate is unpredictable, difficult to work with, and requires specialty tools. When you do manage to drill holes into a stone wall, you can’t just patch them up and paint over them afterward.
But in the event that hanging on a stone wall is the best option, the first thing to do is ask what kind of stone you are dealing with: Is it natural stone or cultured stone? These two are the most commonly used types of stone veneer in residential and commercial buildings. Cultured stone is manufactured, lighter, and much more DIY-friendly. Since it’s not as dense as natural stone and can even be affixed to drywall, cultured stone is relatively easier to drill or nail into. On the other hand, natural stone walls are usually more inconsistent in thickness and shape, requiring more care and high-powered tools. Depending on the type of stone cladding you will be hanging pictures on, there will be key differences in suitable drill bits and optimal drilling spots.
Some stone walls can be more sensitive than others due to type, age, and other factors, so it’s good to know how to hang things on stone without drilling as well as drilling methods. Here are your hardware options for stone walls, depending on the type, shape, smoothness, etc. of the substrate.
Standalone gallery system - Trackless one-cable gallery system that can hold multiple pictures. Holds up to 25 lbs.
Wall dog wire hanger - A safety hanger for hanging with wire. Two options available: One rated for 40 lbs and another rated for 100 lbs.
Concrete screw - Installation screw for hard substrates.
Wall dog screw - A screw and anchor in one, designed for masonry walls
Lead anchor - A medium-duty anchor for masonry walls.
SnapToggle anchor - A self-locking anchor with double the capacity of standard toggle bolts and a smaller pre-drilled hole required. For hollow-backed stone installation only.
Brick clip - Clamps directly onto stone along the mortar joints. Compatibility is subject to variance in the stone, i.e. fit. Holds up to 30 lbs.
Hardwall hook - Hammered with multiple pins. Ideal for soft stone and hanging pictures on stone walls without drilling.
Wear safety goggles. Donning protective gear during every project is a given, but it’s especially encouraged when working with stone. While drilling, dirt and debris can easily get into your eyes, and in the case of chipping, it may get dangerous.
Drill into mortar joints. Similar to brick and other masonry walls, this is the key to protecting your stone wall while drilling. Mortar is easier to penetrate and more manageable to repair afterward, and there is a lower risk of damaging the stone.
Customize your masonry bit. The exact bit needed may be in the instructions of your hardware packaging, but you also need to consider stone type. Natural stone is denser, so you may find that cultured stone may crumble if you use the same drill bit as you would for natural stone.
Secure with wall anchors. If there are no workable mortar joints to use as mounting points, install a heavy-duty wall anchor before putting a fastener through the wall, such as a molly bolt or the SnapToggle anchor system (for hollow-backed stone applications).
Consider how permanent a display may be. Since a stone wall is delicate and stone wall decor requires significant effort, consider whether putting in the work is worth it. If you are displaying something of value that you intend to keep in the same spot for the long term, then that might make it the best option. But if it’s temporary, weigh other non-drilling methods.
Use picture wire to counteract unevenness. Hanging on wire creates a tilting effect, so rather than aiming for a flush display, which is not feasible on stone walls, use the stone to fill the gap from a picture hung on wire. The stone’s jutting surface tends to neutralize the leaning by resting on points along the frame. Check out this video by artist Diana Pigni to see this approach in action:
The most common places fitted with tile walls are the bathroom and kitchen. In these spaces, there is often a rarity of wall-mounted items that are not essential or functional, like wall art. The risk of running into plumbing and wiring behind the walls, and potentially messing up your space’s utilities is high in these spaces. With tiled walls, the risk of damage runs higher.
But hanging art in the bathroom isn’t quite a Herculean task—just something that requires more care than the average spot. The same goes for every other place with similar hazards. If you can conquer tiled walls for hanging projects, that can cover most bathrooms and at least one spot—the backsplash—in the kitchen.
Wondering how to drill through tile walls without shattering the tiles and if it’s even possible? Yes, and you can do it yourself. Towel bars, spice racks, and other similar items of function also needed to be drilled into those tiles to hang securely for years, and you can do the same for artwork in a safe way.
These hardware solutions make the question of how to drill into tile much less of a mystery. Mounting decor on ceramic tile walls can be challenging, but it is doable with the proper hardware and tools.
⚠ WARNING: Nailing directly into tile or grout can possibly cause the grout line or tile to chip so if you go this route, proceed with caution. Use an appropriate drill bit, keep it cool and wet, and make sure it is in drill mode—not hammer mode. Make sure to use tape over the drilling spot, then seal with silicone to create a waterproof seal. More tips below to protect your tile as much as possible when drilling.
Gallery rod kit - Installed with a J-channel track and hangs multiple pictures/decor on brass rods. Adjustable after one-time drilling.
Utility hook - Rated at 30 lbs and uses a single screw instead of nails. Fits up to #10 screw.
Adhesive hangers - Stick-on hangers that are easily removable. Usually for lightweight items. Note: This type of hanger may lose effectiveness when wet, so we advise using it for temporary displays only.
Check behind the tile for power and water lines. You can never be too safe, so as soon as the area is clear, mark it with tape or a pencil.
Mount on a stud or use wall anchors. To cover all your bases and avoid any mishaps, get a stud finder and use it to properly locate studs for your hanging spot, particularly on a tile backsplash. If there are no studs behind the wall, plastic anchors are your friend.
Drill into the grout, not the tiles. Like with stone walls, it’s best to avoid piercing the actual tile if you can. Ceramic tiles are much more fragile, so drilling into the grout is a safer route to take.
Use a carbide-tipped bit. This is also known as a masonry drill bit. If you are drilling into porcelain tiles, a diamond-tipped bit is recommended instead.
Test first if drilling on tile. If the area you want to hang your piece on is directly over a tile, try drilling into a scrap of tile first before moving onto the wall.
Pre-grind the tile. Grinding at the topmost layer of the tile starts the drill bit and minimizes dancing or jumping on the tile during the drilling process. Use a rotary tool or a small block of wood for this step.
Drill with care. Drill at a right angle slowly and at a low pressure, particularly if drilling through tile directly, to prevent cracks.
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Glass walls are beautiful, and becoming ever more common in 21st-century design. You may even find it unavoidable to hang art on glass in some spaces. Or if you’re running out of space for your art, hanging them on windows adds a feeling of novelty to a display.
A glass surface is perhaps the most unexpected and unfamiliar substrate to hang pictures on. What sets it apart from the rest of the other wall types is nailing or drilling through the glass is completely out of the question. High-end specialized services can be commissioned, maybe, employing industrial-grade boring equipment, but this option is not accessible to most—for most of us, you can only really attach hangers on to a glass surface or above it using the methods below.
Because of glass’s fragile nature and the uniqueness of a glass display, most hardware options for picture hanging on glass utilize the ceiling as the hanging point or rely on adhesives for direct contact.
Standalone gallery system - Trackless one-cable gallery system that hangs from the ceiling and can hold multiple pictures. Holds up to 25 lbs.
Ceiling hooks - Suspension hooks for drop ceilings only. Carries up to 15 lbs.
Suction hooks - For hanging small or very lightweight items and temporary displays directly onto a glass surface.
Adhesive hangers - Stick-on hangers for lightweight items, easily removable from glass surfaces.
Acrylic-plate-backed hanger - A unique hardware setup by framing expert and Gallery Services owner Rob Markoff that sets a hook against a proportionate sheet of acrylic, which is glued to the glass or mirrored wall.
Mind the height. If you decide to install a ceiling-mounted system, the height of suspension is crucial to an artwork’s stability. The higher the suspension point, the flatter a piece will hang.
Two hangers is safer than one. Even out the swaying of a ceiling-mounted artwork by anchoring it onto two points instead of one. This is the same principle as using two wall hooks.
Apply picture bumpers. Use stick-on picture bumpers on frame corners for a final stabilizing touch, as well as to protect the glass from scratches.
Wall types that are “impossible” to hang pictures on aren’t truly impossible. If it is set into mortar or filled with grout, drilling into the joints makes the work much less daunting. Just make sure to always check the weight of an artwork or decor before hanging and choose the proper hardware for your project. Stone and tile can take on the drill, but glass is the one wall type where the most effective solutions bring the ceiling into play. With the right tools, nothing is really impossible.
What’s your experience with hanging on these wall types? Start the discussion below. If you’re looking for more 1:1 guidance, email us at support@picturehangsolutions.com.
Happy hanging!